Experience: Brunch at Wayfinder Newport’s Little Clam

Remember that scene from 1939’s The Wizard of Oz when Dorothy steps into Oz, and her drab coffee-colored world instantly transforms to dazzling Technicolor? That’s how it felt walking into Wayfinder Newport on one of those frigid days where sky and sea merge into a singular grayscale. I’d crossed two bridges in the soupy fog for my brunch reservation at the boutique hotel’s restaurant, Little Clam, and once inside the lobby, my eyes immediately went to the mod focal point – a central suspended JC Bordelet Eva 992 fireplace in tangerine. Around the corner in a cozy lounge area, a 50” x 36” oil on canvas of a retro Sea and Ski suntan lotion bottle by Providence artist Mea Duke confirms it – I’m not in Newport anymore. Well, I am, but it’s neither fancy Gilded Age nor classic striped New England trappings; instead, it’s a different spin – one rich with a vintage travel poster aesthetic, abstract art, and mid-century-esque furnishings, exuding the chill vibes that say: beach digs by day, Alps chalet by night.

Even though this is my first visit to the property, I know all the lore. The 2020 renovation of the former Mainstay Hotel and Conference Center into hip accommodations, the tragic fire in May 2020, partial reopening in 2023, and full reopening the following year. Last June saw the launch of Little Clam, led by executive chef Antonio Wormley, a Johnson and Wales University alum and current competitor on FOX’s hit TV series Hell’s Kitchen, and consulting chef Jake Rojas, an acclaimed local. Among their creds, both are advocates of sourcing and promoting the hard-working folks behind the ingredients – oyster farmers, foragers, and family-run farms – so I knew brunch would be a treat. Despite an aversion to seafood, I invited my best friend as my plus-one at Little Clam, knowing the menu features many items besides the humble mollusk.

Our friendly host leads us into the 161-seat dining room which is outfitted in warm neutrals with cool blue accents. I’m quick to spot a framed mixed-media piece by Providence artist Jenny Brown, and chairs by Warren’s O&G Studio. Before I’ve even looked at the menu, I’m reveling in the local flavor. Hot, freshly brewed Nitro Bar coffee arrives and I’m ready to focus. We decide to start with Morning Sippers: I get the Aperol spritz – refreshingly orange and bubbly – and my BFF orders the Bloody Mary, which is essentially the drink that eats like a meal as it features bacon-washed vodka. After the first sip, her expression says it all.
It’s excellent.

There are so many fantastic-sounding dishes on the menu that we decide to each get our own meal plus things to share. It all arrives at once, resulting in a glorious flatlay of striped cloth napkins, silverware, and plated foods embellished with sprinkled herbs and artful drizzles. I get the farmhouse special: two eggs from nearby farms, sunnyside-up, bordered by a breachway of chunky home fries, and brioche toast served with a ramekin of tasty house-made seasonal jam. The brown butter banana bread sounded irresistible and it was; the thick slice arrived topped with an oval-shaped quenelle of whipped honeycomb butter, the sweetness tempered by a finishing of Maldon sea salt. A BLT for the table? Yes, please! A hand-held feast on rustic sourdough of applewood smoked bacon, field greens, tomato slices, and heirloom tomato aioli, all secured with toothpicks, and served alongside a heap of thinly sliced French fries. My bestie devoured her huevos rancheros, a seemingly simple dish leveled up by touches like avocado cream, charred tomatillo salsa, and crispy heirloom corn tortillas.

As a maple syrup snob, I’m still kicking myself that I didn’t order the pancake or the brioche French toast. The dinner selections look pretty amazing, too. Perhaps a weekend of sampling the entire menu while staying at Wayfinder Newport is in the cards! Check for offers on room discounts and deals like the Newport Mansions Escape, which includes two tickets and a $50 dining credit during your stay.

Little Clam

151 Admiral Kalbfus Road Newport

401-849-9880 • WayfinderNewport.com