Experience: Ida’s Restaurant in Middletown

ptly named Middletown, in the center of Aquidneck Island is the commercial heartbeat of the island and home to a handful of stalwart restaurants where locals gather, and travelers discover. When Ida’s Restaurant opened here in 2014, it brought with it a stellar reputation built by the Puerini family, best known for their eponymous restaurant that had operated in downtown Newport for three decades. Dan Puerini opened Ida’s Restaurant in neighboring Middletown in 2014, and three years ago, quietly passed the torch to longtime employee Sarah Rodrigues, who started working at the restaurant a decade ago. When she officially took the reins, she did so seamlessly.

The lack of new-ownership fanfare wasn’t about secrecy so much as it was about letting the dishes continue to speak for themselves. That’s because Rodrigues made a commitment to continuity and consistency, and to deliver what the Ida’s community had come to expect from age-old Puerini family recipes. “It felt like the natural progression, honestly. I already worked there for seven years – I started in 2016, so keeping the menu the same, keeping our hours the same, keeping the recipes the same, keeping the staff the same, it was very important, but also just keeping the spirit of what our guests have always been used to,” says Rodrigues. “It was very important to keep up with everything that Dan had built, his dream becoming my dream, and having our community in Middletown supporting us.”

Calling Newport home for nearly 25 years, I have fond memories of Puerini’s, and on a recent visit to Ida’s, I was quickly reminded of the longtime institution before I even opened Ida’s doors, as the wafting smell of luscious garlic greeted me in the parking lot. Inside, the space is long and relatively narrow, but seating includes tables along a banquette that runs the length of the entire restaurant, a cozy nook where I enjoyed dinner, and a busy bar that seats 10. The dining room’s red and cream walls, varnished wood, and warm lighting lend a comfortable feel, matched by a staff that has worked alongside
Rodrigues for years.

“All of these girls were here when I was just managing it, and they stayed on,” she told me. That kind of tenure assured me I was in capable hands and could take our server Olivia’s recommendations with confidence. Thus, no one at the table hesitated when she said the garlic bread with gorgonzola dipping sauce was one of the most popular starters. Arriving warm out of the oven, the garlicky breadsticks were buttery and crisp on the outside, and plated like Lincoln logs around the melted gorgonzola (as promised, ideal for dipping). They were a crowd pleaser – and I’ll save the mussels appetizer, served in a white wine sauce with garlic and herbs, for next time.

Rodrigues told me a good many of the most loved dishes at Ida’s are from the original Puerini’s in Newport, including “the piccata, the gorgonzola, the marsala, the parmesan,” done with veal or chicken, as was the eggplant, which won my order. (One of Puerini’s original menus is framed on the wall for guests who might want a delicious walk down Memory Lane.)

While I expected a rendition closely resembling a traditional eggplant parmesan, served in a stack or rolled in a ceramic gratin dish, Ida’s version was a surprising delight – eight golden brown medallions, pounded thin, breaded, and baked with a generous helping of bubbling mozzarella cheese and housemade tomato sauce on top. The dish came with a serving of fresh homemade fettuccine with tomato sauce, the majority of which was delightfully enjoyed the next day.

Olivia said her favorite item at the restaurant is the roasted red pepper alfredo, a creamy homemade fettuccine entree that, unless famished, leaves plenty for later. It’s also one of a good number of dishes that’ll catch the eye of vegetarians. And for seafood lovers, the fresh tuna steak is equally tempting. It’s grilled and served with sweet and spicy glazed broccoli and carrots, wasabi aioli, and peanut dipping sauce. This time of year, seasonal seafood specials can also include everything from seared sea scallops over linguini with chopped clams to tuna tartar.

Ida’s has a wine list with more than 30 choices; a menagerie of by-the-glass, bottle, and half bottle (plus two sparkling splits). But their cocktail list equally offers tempting choices. Rodrigues says they add seasonal drinks, and she personally dehydrates the fruit for garnishes and squeezes all the fruit for mixers. Right now, guests will see the vessels behind the bar stacked with fresh pineapple – one steeping in vodka, the other in jalapeno tequila – for Ida’s Stoli Dolis. “We let them sit for 14 days at minimum,” says Rodrigues, allowing the fruit to infuse the spirits with natural sweetness and flavor for the coveted cocktails.

Rodrigues is equally involved in dessert, rolling up her sleeves with the chefs to make specials like Biscoff tiramisu or strawberry cakes layered with blueberry and blackberry cream cheese. Standards on the menu include favorites like Dan’s coffee cake, New York cheesecake with honey bourbon strawberries, and the classic pot of chocolate made with milk and dark chocolate blended with espresso and a side of cream.

“We take a lot of pride in knowing about our guests, their lives and their needs, where they like to sit, and like, ‘Oh, their daughter is getting married this weekend!’ And we’re the same to our community too, like they’ll come in and be like, “Oh my gosh, like where is Olivia? Her son’s what, like four now?’” says Rodrigues. “They care as much as we care about them, which is so nice. You don’t get that everywhere.”

Ida’s Restaurant

21 Valley Road

Middletown

401-849-3377 • IdasRestaurant.com