Making a living as a chef or restaurateur has never, ever, been for the faint of heart. Starting a restaurant often comes with great risk: off-the-chart failure rates, long hours, fierce competition. But for many in the industry, the risk is worth the high of practicing your passion. The birth of the celebrity chef in the 1990s kicked it up a notch: chefs and restaurants were often pitted against each other, either by food writers or by chefs’ own egos. In New York City alone, there were battles between David Bouley and Daniel Boulud, between Mario Batali and all of Little Italy, and nobody had anything nice to say about Bobby Flay.
Around this time, Rhode Island was taking off as a stellar dining destination. But that ugly ebb of competition never reached our shore, giving way to the flow of camaraderie. Matt Varga at Gracie’s and Derek Wagner of Nicks on Broadway, to name just two, were among dozens in the industry who began celebrating one another, eating at one another’s restaurants, teaming up for fundraising dinners for charities such as Share Our Strength – and forging friendships and professional relationships in the process. “Screw you, New York,” they seemed to be saying. “Rhode Island knows how to do this right.”
David Moore, co-owner of The General Stanton Inn in Charlestown for the past four years, bears witness to this esprit de corps regularly. “Heartwarming” is how he describes the support bestowed upon him from the Rhode Island restaurant community. “I’ve been astounded at the chefs and restaurant owners who have come to eat here on their nights off and have been so gracious with their time and guidance on my menus, wine list, and more.” While they are too numerous to mention, he singles out Perry Raso of Matunuck Oyster Bar and Matunuck Atelier; Bob Leonard of the Coast Guard House in Narragansett, and Kevin Finnegan of the nearby Ocean Mist in Matunuck. “The sense of community we have here in Rhode Island is stronger than anywhere,” Moore says.
Restaurateur Jeanie Roland of Ella’s (as well as sister restaurant The Perfect Caper in Punta Gorda, Florida) has racked up dozens of accolades in her years as a chef. The Culinary Institute of America grad has authored two cookbooks, been a semifinalist many times for a James Beard Award, and tackled (culinarily, that is) Chef Bobby Flay on his own eponymous Food Network show, Beat Bobby Flay. But in Westerly circles, she’s almost more famous for welcoming part-time Westerly resident Taylor Swift and her friend and fellow musician Lorde, into her kitchen for some cooking lessons in 2023.
Like so many chefs, Roland started her culinary journey as a kid in her grandmother’s kitchen and was smitten. As a youngster, she eschewed macaroni and cheese for things like liverwurst and mushrooms. “As a chef, I find myself constantly evolving but staying true to who I am,” she says. Ella’s has a large menu, Roland explains, “everything from basic pastas and a burger to foie gras (one of her favorite things to prepare) and Moroccan spiced rack of lamb.” Ella’s offers a little something for everyone in menu and atmosphere, including a formal dining room or the more relaxed bar. “The most important thing is that the customer is happy from start to finish.”
When Roland and husband and partner James eat local in Rhode Island, Italian is on the menu. They swoon over Pasquale’s Pizzeria Napoletana in Wakefield. “I always start with the Rucola salad with pistachios and gorgonzola, and then a number of pizzas: the wood-fired Margherita STG, the Pasquale’s Mood with Calabrian chili, and my favorite, the Carbonara, with pancetta and fried egg.” Happy and satiated, the Rolands will take home dessert from Neapolis, Pasquale’s sister emporium across the street.
For Chef Vanessa Saldaña, food isn’t what she does, it’s who she is. “I grew up surrounded by the traditions and flavors of Peruvian cuisine, where cooking was not just about feeding people but about gathering family, celebrating culture, and sharing stories around the table.” In cooking school, Saldaña learned the technical discipline of classical cuisine, but remained rooted in her traditions. “Peruvian cuisine reflects centuries of cultural influences with Spanish, African, Japanese, and Chinese techniques, creating a cuisine that is vibrant, bold, and constantly evolving.”
At Qhali Kitchen, “my goal has always been to celebrate those traditions while also allowing space for creativity,” she explains. “Some of the dishes I’m most proud of represent that balance between tradition and creativity. Our ceviche is one of them. It’s a dish that captures the freshness of coastal Peru, with citrus-marinated seafood, ají peppers, and classic garnishes that highlight bright, clean flavors. Rocoto relleno is another favorite, a dish from the Andes made with spicy rocoto peppers filled with a savory mixture and baked until rich and comforting. And of course, pollo a la brasa, Peru’s famous rotisserie chicken, holds a special place in my heart.”
On the rare nights when she’s not in the kitchen, Saldaña loves exploring the East Bay restaurant scene. “The state has such a strong community of chefs and restaurateurs, and there is a real appreciation for quality ingredients and thoughtful cooking. One place I always go is Rhody Roots in Warren. Their food is very fresh and creative.” Saldaña also frequents Tamp in Bristol “for very good coffee.” Her bottom line is simple: “Whether you’re cooking in your own restaurant or enjoying someone else’s, food should bring people together and create moments to remember long after the meal is finished.”
Michael Lester grew up in the Edgewood section of Cranston, one of five boys. The Lester home was ground zero for holidays and football parties with dozens in attendance. (To this day, Lester’s mother Jean has two full-sized refrigerators in her kitchen.) “My mother and my mémère, Eileen,” Lester says, “carved my path to hospitality. I grew up around the rhythm of family dinners and the idea that food is ultimately about how it makes people feel.”
Mémère’s, the Lesters’ new restaurant in the Neptune (formerly The Dean Hotel) co-owned and run with his wife, Regina, is where Lester wants to recreate that nostalgic feeling. “We want guests to feel something when they walk in,” he says. “There’s a sense of warmth – low lighting, music, texture, energy – and a gradual unfolding of the experience. We’re focused on creating signature dishes that feel tied to special moments.”
“New England comfort with a French twist” is how Lester describes the menu. “Something as simple as a warm gougère filled with
Camembert fondue can set the tone for the entire meal. Regina, the pastry chef and formerly the co-owner of The Dorrance in Downcity, crafts comforting endings such as a triple chocolate raspberry cake and a toasted coconut cheesecake with passionfruit curd.
When not at the restaurant, the Lesters are big fans of the leisurely lunch. “At Nicks on Broadway, we’ll order most of the menu and spend the afternoon celebrating the day,” he says. Evenings might be spent at Al Forno for pizza, salads, baked pasta, dessert, alongside Negronis and wine. “We also love a Gift Horse/Oberlin combination, or a Persimmon/Dolores pairing. And we love to support our downcity friends at Cielito, Tori Tomo, Figidini, and Murphy’s. But the place I probably frequent most is Debbie’s. Ed [Davis] is a national treasure,” Lester says. “What I admire most in other restaurants is clarity and confidence. When a place has that, it creates a sense of ease that’s incredibly appealing.”
Chef Sean Devlin is the product of some stellar local culinary institutions: Johnson & Wales University, Calvitto’s and DeFusco’s bakeries, and a 14-year stint as co-owner of Breadworks Pizza Bakery in Johnston. So, we have him to thank for the ever-popular calzones, pizzas, pot pies, cookies, and breads – as well as the ever-expanding array of prepared foods at Dave’s Fresh Marketplace locations around Rhode Island.
“After more than 20 years with Dave’s, some of the dishes I’m most proud of creating include our lobster mac and cheese, braised beef pot pies, sausage and rabe orecchiette, and our rotisserie chicken salad. I brought with me Breadworks’ calzone and biscotti recipes, which continue to be a source of great pride.” The latest food trends are a source of inspiration for Devlin. “Lately, I’ve been especially pleased with our power bowls program – they feature great flavors, are well balanced, and offer healthy options for our customers. I’m currently developing a ramen bowl program that customers can simply heat for three minutes and enjoy – an easy, tasty solution for people on the go.”
Devlin’s goals are lofty, which explains why prepared foods and baked goods are so incredibly popular at Dave’s. “Our goal is to deliver products that are even better than restaurant quality, made fresh in small batches to ensure consistency and attention to detail. We have an amazing team of staff in our kitchens – creative managers and prep chefs that diligently recreate these recipes every day.”
Devlin also finds inspiration in the foodie community. “Dining out is very important to me. I truly value the opportunity to enjoy a meal that’s prepared with the same passion and care that I put into my own cooking. Some of my favorite places include L’Osteria in Cranston for their veal chops and Assados Kitchen and Bar in Chepachet for their seafood sauté. Great photos and strong word of mouth always draw me in to try something new.”
“My favorite restaurant is SOTT on Westminster, downtown, for authentic Korean cuisine. I love spicy food and the vibe is aesthetically pleasing. I order jjajangmyeom and spicy tteokbokki.”
“I go to Mori Sushi in Bellevue Plaza. They focus on the purity of ingredients, and the fish is incredibly fresh. I usually trust the chef and let the kitchen guide the experience.”
“I like the East End for its relaxed atmosphere with a playful small plates program. I order the cheese board and pickles, or bone marrow whenever they have it on the menu.”
“Rasa and/or Rasoi. The food and drinks are always fantastic, and takeout is well-prepared and packaged efficiently. I order any of the chicken curries, chicken and pea dosa, and chicken samosas.”
“When I go out, I enjoy gracies, plum point bistro, vanda, and purslane. I enjoy eating locally grown food prepared with care and technique. I am
usually looking for a culinary experience.”
“Dine in: The Slow Rhode for its easy-going neighborhood bar with comforting snacks. I order the duck drummettes and chicken sandwich. Take out: Hidalgo for the best burrito in Rhode Island. I get the mixto burrito or the chorizo quesadilla.”
“As a dad with two kids, I usually opt for casual places. Irregardless for breakfast sandwiches, Heng Thai and Rotisserie for rotisserie chicken, Aleppo Sweets for Syrian food, and Butterbang for croissants.”
“We love JT Commons for their pizza; my kids love it, and the service is great. I also love Rasa in East Greenwich for amazing, traditional Indian food. I order JT’s focaccia pizza and Rasa’s lamb samosas.”
“The Square Peg in Warren. I order a coconut margarita and bang bang shrimp tacos or an ahi tuna bowl.”
“My go-to spot is always Orale Taqueria on Chalkstone Avenue in Providence. They’re open late and I love their variety. I order a minimum of four tacos every time, especially the soft corn tortilla mixto taco or beef tongue tacos.”
“I love to eat at Trattoria Appia of Federal Hill. The pasta is fresh and the service is great. I also enjoy Los Andes for their great seafood. I love the grilled whole fish served at Little Clam.”
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